Mount Shuksan: Sulphide Glacier

The North Cascades are a climber’s playground. They offer big mountain terrain in an unbelievable setting. Their jagged ridges and rocky summits are surrounded by snowfields and glaciers, which will put all of your previous mountaineering skills to the test. On this trip we will attempt the Sulphide Glacier route on Mt. Shuksan, which is the world’s most photographed mountain. This is a classic route, which involves 3rd-5th class rock, steep snow up to 50 degrees and glacier travel.

Book July 15-19, 2017

IMPORTANT BETA

CLIMB DETAILS

Price: $950 Per Person
Length: 2 days
Guide-to-Client Ratio: 1:2
Difficulty: Strenuous
When: July 15-19, 2017
Type: Mountaineering

INCLUDED

2:1 NEM Guide Ratio
Camping throughout
All Group Gear
Emergency Gear
NCNP Climbing Permit

NOT INCLUDED

Airfare
Transportation
Personal Gear
Lodging when in town (unless listed otherwise)
Meals
Rental gear
Gratuities

RENTAL GEAR

Most of the required equipment [listed below] is available for rent from our affiliate mtnGEAR. NEM climbers will receive an exclusive discount of 20% discount on all rental equipment and clothing.

2017 DATES AVAILABLE

We are now booking summer 2017 from June-August. Do you have a date in mind? Let us know and we will work to make your dream come true!

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Day 1: Arrival into Seattle, WA.

Day 2: Today, we will meet at 8AM at our hotel. Here we will meet and greet our fellow teammates and get a briefing of what to expect for the next 3 days. Following this meeting, we will conduct a full gear check to ensure everyone has what they will need to complete the climbs safely and efficiently. We will have the opportunity to rent or purchase any missing gear. We will drive into the North Cascades National Park (3hr drive) and camp at a local campground.

CLIMBING ITINERARY BEGINS

Day 3: We will wake early and drive to the Trailhead. Our climb will begin on steep switchbacks through the forest before gaining the glacier to high camp at approximately 6,000 feet. This day is physically demanding due to heavy packs.

Day 4: A mellow walk on the Sulphide puts us at the base of the summit pyramid, the highlight of the summit climb. 4-5 pitches of 4th and 5th class rock and some steep snow will put us on the small exposed summit. We will descend all the way back to the car today and camp at the campground again.

CLIMBING ITINERARY ENDS

Day 5: We will begin the drive back to Seattle and say our goodbyes. Afternoon flights can be booked, but we encourage you to take an extra day and to visit Pike Place Market, the Space Needle, and the amazing city of Seattle.

fisher

More Technical on Fisher Chimneys

A classic climbing route of mixed 4th/5th class rock scrambles and glacier travel and otherworldly camping locations. From the trailhead we follow the valley to Lake Ann. We spend the night below the chimneys. The chimneys are a highlight of the route with 4th/5th class scrambling that will get your attention. High camp is established above the Chimneys at 6,700 feet before going for the summit early the following day.

CLIMB DETAILS

Length: 3 Days
1 person: $1200 per person
2 people: $950 per person

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skicamp

Ski Mountaineering the Sulphide Glacier

Our traditional itinerary with a twist. For those with backcountry skiing experience, a ski descent of the Sulphide Glacier provides a faster, more enjoyable descent. After a moderate skin up the Sulphide Glacier, we stash the boards for the summit pyramid scramble - strapping in upon return. Participants must have a suitable touring setup with boots and skins for the climb. Almost 4,000 vert of ski descent.

IMPORTANT BETA

When: June 9-11, 2017
1 person: $1200 per person
2 people: $950 per person

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Frequently Asked Questions About The North Cascades

How Difficult is the North Cascades Climbing trip?

The mountains in the North Cascades are long climbs with heavy backpacks. They can be very strenuous at times. These peaks require technical rock climbing and long approaches as well as steep snow. Prior rock climbing experience is required. You will need to be in top physical condition.

Do I Need Any Prior Experience?

The rock climbing and scrambles are beginner grades. The most difficult climbing is rated 5.6 but mostly it is 4th-5th class. Due to the alpine environment, these climbs take on a more serious perspective than rock climbs of harder grades closer to civilization. Prior rock climbing and camping experience are required.

What Are the Age Limits for This Climb?

We encourage participants to be age 16 or over, although exceptions can be made based on previous experience. Participants under the age of 16 will need to submit a climbing resume for review. As long as you are in excellent physical condition, are approved by your doctor, and have are able to legally sign the liability waiver, you are welcome to join us!

How Long are the Climbing Days?

Each day is challenging. At the beginning of the climb altitude is not an issue. However, pack weight is heavy. As we ascend, packs get lighter but altitude takes its toll. Summit day is 14-16 hours long.

What are the Sleeping Arrangements on the Mountain?

We will provide tents. To minimize the amount of necessary gear, climbers will share a tent. Your tent will be designed to sleep the number of climbers assigned in it [i.e. a 3-person tent will sleep 3 climbers and a 2-person tent will sleep 2 climbers]. We will only make exceptions to this on rare occasions. Please feel free to contact us if you feel you need your own tent.

How Heavy Will My Pack Be?

You can expect a 45lb-55lb pack for the first two days. Summit day will require 10lb-15lb packs.

Why Do We Begin Our Summit Attempt in the Dark?

We get an alpine start for many reasons. In general everything is safer at night when the temperatures are cold and the sun has not begun to melt the snow and ice. The terrain is firmer for easier climbing, snow bridges over crevasses are frozen, the snowpack is more stable and rock fall is less of a hazard.

General Policies

GENERAL POLICIES

NEMs Adventure plans and itineraries are subject to change or adjustment based on a number of factors. These include, but are not limited to, route conditions, weather, terrain, and many other factors. NEM has complete discretion to change plans to accommodate any of these or other factors, including discretion to change program schedule or itinerary, and change guides or staff, as necessary for the proper and safe conduct of the program.

We reserve the right to cancel any program due to inadequate signups, weather or route conditions. In such a case, an NEM credit for the full value is given; however, NEM cannot be responsible for any additional expenses incurred in preparing for the program (i.e., airline tickets, equipment purchase or rental, hotel reservations).

NEM reserves the right to dismiss the Participant from a trip at any time if NEM determines, in its sole discretion, that the Participant is not physically, technically, or psychologically prepared for or capable of participating in the program. This includes being under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs.

SUMMIT ATTEMPT

Northeast Mountaineering cannot guarantee that you will reach the summit. Weather, route conditions, your own abilities or the abilities of others may create circumstances that make an ascent unsafe, and you or your entire party will have to turn around without reaching the summit. Your program fee entitles you to one summit attempt on your specified dates.

MINIMUM REGISTRATION REQUIREMENTS

For our adventures to run as booked, we must have 50% enrollment of the maximum participant allotment. As an example, if the program has a maximum of 8 people then we must have 4 registered participants for the adventure. In the case of low registration, you may be asked to postpone or join another group on a different date. Exceptions may be made but it is at complete discretion of Northeast Mountaineering, its guides and agents.

RISK MANAGEMENT

Safety is NEM’s number one priority. Our guides manage significant hazards inherent in the mountains such as avalanches, ice fall, rock fall, inclement weather, and high winds, but they cannot eliminate them. NEM guides draw from their wealth of experience and training to make sound decisions that maximize your experience without compromising the necessary margin of safety. Please clearly understand that mountaineering and all other mountain adventures are inherently hazardous sports. You are choosing to engage in an activity in which participants have been injured and killed. While those accidents are indeed infrequent, they may occur at any time and be out of our control. We ask that participants acknowledge the risk and hazards of these sports, and make their own choices about whether or not to engage in these activities.

DOMESTIC ADVENTURES

Payment in full is due at the time of booking. Cancellations outside of 7 days are fully refundable except for a $50 service fee. There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 7 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check.

BEYOND NEW ENGLAND INCLUDING MOUNT RAINIER

A non-refundable deposit of $750 per person secures your reservation but may vary - please check the individual pages. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 1 month [30 days] before departure - but may vary. For your convenience, we can work out a monthly payment plan.

INTERNATIONAL ADVENTURES

A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person secures your reservation but may vary - please check the individual pages. Payments may be made via MasterCard, Visa, American Express, or check. Final payment is due 1 month [30 days] before departure - but may vary. For your convenience, we can work out a monthly payment plan.

CANCELLATION

There will be no refunds for cancellations made less than 7 days before your program. Unfortunately, due to the time-sensitive nature of our business, and the difficulty in re-booking a trip close to departure, we cannot make exceptions to this policy.

CHANGE OF DATE

Date changes are subject to availability and apply only to the current climbing season. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 7 days prior to your departure date for a $25 fee per person. Date changes may be requested at anytime up to 3 days prior to your departure date for a $50 fee per person. There are no date changes allowed less than 2 days before departure.